California of the East

California of the East

From a distance, the small two-storey building melts into the grey of Vilnius’ northwestern suburbs. Once past the modest entrance and a small EU flag sticker you only need to go up a few stairs to discover a dozen high-tech laboratories. These belong to the Lithuanian company EKSPLA, owner of some of the most cutting-edge […]

Lessons in Capitalism

Lessons in Capitalism

Vilnius is booming. Not far from the Old Town, the city’s new skyline is glinting in the sun on the north bank of the river Neris. Between the glass facades of the skyscrapers, shoppers are scurrying around on marble pavements. Hardly thirty paces further there is a building site. Noisy builders are working on the […]

Lithuania’s Gay Skeleton in the Closet

Lithuania’s Gay Skeleton in the Closet

It’s nighttime in Vilnius, with temperatures minus 30°. A neon light shines dimly from the second floor of an apartment block. ‘It’s there.’ Eduardas Platovas points a finger to the square of light, home to his struggle for more than a decade. Surrounded by concrete and half-light, the headquarters of the Lithuanian Lesbian and Gay […]

Emigration, Public Enemy No.1

Emigration, Public Enemy No.1

Boxes full of provisions are tucked away just under the roof of a deep refrigerated warehouse in Clondalkin, 20 minutes outside of Dublin, the Irish capital. Temperatures here are below 15 degrees Celsius. Vytautas Šlivinskas is wearing special clothes to protect him from the cold. Today his job is to repack pizza and ice-cream for […]

Fighting Cultural Monotony

Fighting Cultural Monotony

The bright and inviting foyer to the old Skalvija cinema on the bank of the Neris seems to be glowing. Inside, young people keep warm in the newly constructed ‘Bruce Lee’ café. The walls are freshly painted and every table is occupied. The visitors are awaiting the next showing of Murderball, a sentimental documentary about […]